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SOUTHERN CALIFORNIAN RICK OWENS BEGAN DESIGNING AFTER A TWO-YEAR STINT IN PATTERN CUTTING SCHOOL IN LOS ANGELES. HE FOUNDED HIS NAMESAKE LINE IN 1994, REMAINING LARGELY UNDER THE RADAR WITH A SMALL BUT DEDICATED FOLLOWING IN THE UNDERGROUND GLAM ROCK AND GRUNGE COMMUNITIES. THE FASHION INDUSTRY EVENTUALLY TOOK NOTE OF HIS ABILITY TO MARRY A GOTHIC, DISTRESSED SENSIBILITY WITH COUTURELIKE SOPHISTICATION, AND IN 2001 OWENS MOVED PRODUCTION OF HIS LINE TO ITALY WHILE THE DESIGNER HIMSELF RELOCATED TO PARIS. WITH HIS PARTNER MICHÈLE LAMY, OWENS CREATES COLLECTIONS THAT COMBINE CLASSICAL INFLUENCES, BRUTALIST DESIGN, AND SIGNATURE ASCETICISM. ROOTED IN CONCEPTUAL AND ARCHITECTURAL FORMS, THE DESIGNS FROM RICK OWENS ARE AT ONCE ANCIENT AND FUTURISTIC, PRIESTLY AND PROFANE.
SHOP NOWSINCE ENTERING THE INDUSTRY IN 1995, RAF SIMONS HAS BECOME ONE OF THE MOST CELEBRATED FIGURES IN FASHION. THROUGHOUT HIS CAREER, RAF SIMONS HAS ESTABLISHED HIMSELF WITH A YOUTH-CENTRIC VISION THAT REFRAMED POP CULTURE AND ART THROUGH THE LENS OF CLOTHING. RAF SIMONS’ FALL WINTER 2020 COLLECTION HAD A TRANSPORTING QUALITY BECAUSE THE PEOPLE HE DEPICTED APPEARED TO NO LONGER INHABIT OUR WORLD YET THEY DRESSED AS THOUGH THEY WERE STILL CLINGING TO SOME PART OF IT. THIS COLLECTION WAS SIMONS VENTURING BEYOND HIS OBSESSION WITH MISSPENT YOUTH. IT WAS THE ABDUCTION OF YOUTH ALTOGETHER.
The split-toe Tabi boot has become synonymous with the house of Maison Margiela since its introduction in 1988. The Tabi silhouette comes from 15th century Japan. After being inspired by Japanese designers like COMME des GARÇONS’ Rei Kawakubo as well as Yohji Yamamoto, on a trip to Japan with the infamous Antwerp Six, Martin Margiela adopted the tabi silhouette and brought it into the luxury fashion world. The cloven-hoof Tabi boot made its first appearance on Margiela’s runway in 1988
